Vergenoegd Löw's 'Back to the Future' Wine Growing

Vergenoegd Löw, the low-lying Stellenbosch estate a pebble’s throw from the sea, is maximising the advantage of its location by working with, rather than against nature.

According to MD Corius Visser, this entails an increasing focus on regenerative agriculture to build soil health and biodiversity, and to enhance the climate-resilience and fruit quality of its new-generation vines.

Calling it a “back to the future” way of farming, Visser explains that it is a progressive, adaptive approach that combines heritage farming where it makes practical, economic and ecological sense, with precision tools and a new understanding of climate, soil, human and crop relationships.

The point of combining tradition with technology, he stresses, is to create quality wines that are in balance with their terroir and true to the estate’s almost 330-year heritage. Vergenoegd Löw was founded in 1696 and is one of the country’s oldest working farms.

The approach comes in the wake of new ownership and investment, thanks to German entrepreneur, philanthropist, historian and heritage advocate Prof Dr Dr Peter Löw, who bought the 160ha property in 2015 and initiated an entire replanting of the vines, now covering almost 55 ha. He also brought Visser on board.

The farm is just 3,5km from the False Bay coastline, where it is around 3°C cooler in summer, compared to average temperatures in the Stellenbosch area. The prevailing south-easterly summer winds not only cool the vines to slow and concentrate fruit ripeness but also keep vine disease at bay.

Calling it a “back to the future” way of farming, MD Corius Visser explains

Since the replanting programme begun in 2017, direct exposure to the South Easter is managed by planting vine rows in almost the same direction the wind blows to allow it to flow through the vineyards. “The effect is to cool the vines and minimise the impact of the wind force,” explains Visser. “The vine-row direction also gives the grapes balanced exposure to, and protection from the sun in mid-summer for optimal ripeness.

“Interestingly, old farming records show that the vine row orientation we are following today was used way back by earlier generations.”

The property lies almost at the mouth of the Eerste River in what was originally an ancient seabed, rich in sea fossils and minerals. “Unusually for the Stellenbosch area, the soils are rich in lime, imparting perfume and elegance to the wines.”

The property lies almost at the mouth of the Eerste River in what was originally an ancient seabed.

Calcareous soils are well-draining but nevertheless also retain water. Being porous, they retain moisture in periods of dry weather but drain well in times of heavy rain, and vine roots can easily penetrate to the depths. They also cool down vine roots during the hotter summer months.

As part of the “back to the future” initiative, only the farm’s ancient blue gums are being retained. “Yes, they are notorious water thieves but it’s all about context. We are located just 12m above sea level and that makes us prone to flooding in winter. Blue gums are natural water pumps that help manage the water table. Depending on size, each tree can absorb as many as 300 litres of water per day. They really symbolise what we mean when we talk about our progressive, adaptive approach to sustainable farming.

To manage flooding, they have also built several ponds linked to the natural vlei and the river via a series of water-drainage channels across the property

“To manage flooding, we have also built several ponds linked to the natural vlei and the river via a series of water-drainage channels across the property. The channels are planted to indigenous reeds and grasses, turning them into wetland eco-corridors. They minimise the impact of intense downpours, filter the water, prevent soil erosion, and provide habitat to numerous animals, birds, and insects.”

Vergenoegd Löw’s gardens and open spaces are planted to indigenous trees and shrubs with special attention given to plants that can sustain honeybees as a means of encouraging biodiversity.

The vlei and the eco-corridors also play an important role, providing summer grazing for the Dexter cattle, introduced to the farm in 2022, fertilizing and restoring the veld by opening it up as they graze. In winter, the cattle graze the various cover crops that are planted between the vines. Apart from feeding on weeds and reducing the need for herbicides, their grazing encourages the regrowth of the cover crops, helping to regulate soil temperatures and avoid the occurrence of bare soil surfaces.

The vlei and the eco-corridors also play an important role, providing summer grazing for the Dexter cattle

Similarly, the Indian Runner ducks, introduced to the farm in 1984 by previous owner John Faure, form part of the estate’s integrated pest management programme. They are partial to snails and other vineyard pests that they eat while enriching the soil.

Currently, Visser and the team are trialling various permanent cover crop combinations in the vineyards to find ways of reducing tillage and thus disturbance of soil structure. The selected plants are hardy, low-maintenance insectary and mainly indigenous perennials that require little water. Current plantings include kooigoed (Helichrysum petiolare), while future plantings will include wilde-als/wormwood (Artemisia Afra), buchu (Agathosma renulata) and confetti bush (Coleonema pulchellum). While not indigenous, lavender and rosemary are also included in the trial.

“We want to bring out and do the best for our special enclave that forms part of the Helderberg Wine Route. Vergenoegd means to be contented. And we are, living, farming and savouring wines in balance.”

Visser oversees all winegrowing and winemaking on the estate. Since 2021, Vusi Dalicuba has been making wines under his direction. Dalicuba is supported by Tamsin Valentine. Christiaan Cloete recently joined Vergenoegd Löw as farm manager.

Go to www.vergenoegd.co.za for more information about Vergenoegd Löw.

The Indian Runner ducks, introduced to the farm in 1984 by previous owner John Faure, form part of the estate’s integrated pest management programme.

Also see:
Vergenoegd Löw has their ducks in a row

Issued by: AUGUST COLLECTIVE

Pictures: SUPPLIED